Peter
1 posts
Joined: 14/06/2006 13:41:06
Location: TUNBRIDGE WELLS United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Oil pressure relief valve
Clicky
My car is (soon to be) fitted with an engine from a 1987 MG Metro, which I am currently rebuilding. I need a new pressure relief valve anyway, so a couple of questions:
1. Will the pressure relief valve on the search page above fit the engine?
2. Are the ball ones any good? As they are cheaper and apparently quite good I'm quite tempted. Has anyone tried them?
Posted: Jun 14, 2006 01:55 PM
Tim
1849 posts
Joined: 18/10/2004 09:40:59
Location: Bournemouth United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
I've never used the ball-type valve, and I've no idea if it would fit your metro engine, but I'd be worried about fitting it because, unlike the original type, there's no way of getting it out if it gets stuck!
Posted: Jun 14, 2006 04:53 PM
T. Perks
33 posts
Joined: 08/01/2005 20:13:32
Location: chipping sodbury United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
The ball valves are ok but you will need to shorten the spring or you'll get about 90 psi oil pressure, way too much!, the ball do not tend to stick as they are smaller than the original valves and only touch where the chamfer is on the inside of the seat in the engine you can also use the ball from the outer cv joints which are 9/16" i belive. hope this helps.
Oh by the way it will fit as long as your running an A series Engine.
Posted: Jun 14, 2006 07:05 PM
Leebex
Joined: 02/01/2011 21:25:39
Location: Chesterfield United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Hi, I have a 1985 mini with the 998 engine. I recently replaced the oil pressure relief valve with the ball and spring kit from minispares. my question is, should it have been quite difficult to fit? what I mean is that I had to push with quite a bit of pressure to compress the spring whilst starting the nut. the orange light has gone off on the dash but the car has no oil pressure gauge so want to make sure its ok.
Posted: Mar 01, 2017 11:50 AM
minimans
Joined: 21/03/2017 00:07:43
Location: Sonoma United States
You really need check the oil pressure with a mechanical gauge. just because the light is out does not mean the pressure is OK
Posted: Mar 21, 2017 12:21 AM
croc7
Joined: 13/09/2004 18:16:02
Location: Tacoma United States
I don't know what the spring rate is for that particular kit or the length of the spring for that matter but keep in mind that using a ball in place of the stock plunger (bullet) adds about .25" overall length and will be more difficult to install.
Posted: Apr 12, 2017 06:40 PM
Aldo Guerrini
4 posts
Joined: 15/11/2008 01:36:02
Location: Ravenna Italy
well i had the spring+ball oil pressure on a 1275 spi overhauled engine and the oil pressure was very high (more than 100lbs/ft @ cold engine) ! turned back to spring and plunger original kit and got acceptable values (65-70lbs/ft @cold and 55-60 @ warmed engine) In my opinion and I am not very skilled is not a very difficoult operation to carry out ... believe me if i made the grade you cn do as well ....
Posted: Jun 30, 2017 04:19 PM
No oil pressure on rebuilt engine...
Sorry, I didn't read your post properly. Have you actually got oil pumping out of the pressure relief valve hole when you turn the engine over?
Posted: Feb 20, 2008 12:22 PM
Barry Brown
511 posts
Joined: 23/06/2008 12:08:31
Location: New Barn United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
no oil pressure
and check that the oil pressure relief valve isn't stuck open while you've got the oil pipe of the block.
Posted: Feb 15, 2011 09:35 AM
oil pressure
And if that's not the issue when did you last clean out the oil pressure relief valve?
Posted: Jan 09, 2014 09:01 AM
OIL PRESSURE DROP
Oh dear, that's way too low. Has it just started doing this or is it a gradual thing that's come on over time? Have you changed the oil and filter recently? Are you using the right oil - it must be 20w50 mineral oil, nothing else. It won't hurt to change the ball and spring pressure relief valve but if that doesn't do the trick you could be looking at new bearings and/or oil pressure pump
Posted: Aug 22, 2011 09:07 AM
J. Carter
Joined: 20/09/2004 12:34:11
Location: Acworth United States
auto block
Phil - go to www.austinamericausa.com and under the articles you will find instructions on converting an auto block to manual. Basically, you will need an adaptor plate, pressure relief valve seat for manual (or remove the auto one and weld up the two holes), drill the oil hole for the dipstick, and the oilway for the manual pump. Yes, the oil way is different in that they did not finish the drilling.
Posted: Oct 12, 2008 09:52 PM
You are supposed to prime the oil pump before turing over - try removing the oil pressure relief valve and pumping oil down the hole (I use a little oil can with a long spout).
Posted: Feb 20, 2008 10:43 AM
mini90
32 posts
Joined: 30/09/2004 16:35:30
Location: Nottingham United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
..
Id agree check out the pressure relief valve first. You can change the pump without taking the engie out of the car but its a lot easier to lift the lump. Remove clutch and flywheel then remove Flywheel housing oil pump is located top left behind the housing.
Posted: Jan 04, 2005 08:17 PM
paslow22
24 posts
Joined: 03/12/2012 07:18:14
Location: Hamlyn Terrace NSW Australia
Dry Oil Filter
I didn't know the filter was horizontal on an spi! You live and learn.
This is only the case with later Japan models, as the never introduced the MPi to the Japan market for type approval reasons. Instead they built something of a "hybrid". Completely MPi technic, except for the fueling system.
MPi block with MPi ignition, combined with SPi fueling.
@ paslow22:
Are you sure that there´s no reliev valve installed? It´s not in the filter port. It´s located somewhat down left of the filter, near the oil pressure switch, under a domed cap nut.
Without reliev valve, the engine would not build up oil pressure at all...
The oil would bypass the filter directly to the sump and of course also drain back out of the filter.
Cheers, Diddi
Hello, With reference to the dry oil filter and the missing relief valve, well when I was removing the oil filter I placed rags under the filter to catch the oil drips.
I then undid the nut on the left of the filter and there was nothing in there just a oil gallery, so then I'm thinking no relief valve.
After removing the rags I then found that I had covered up another nut under the first one it is down beside the starter motor and hard to see, and after removing the starter motor removed the nut and found the missing relief valve.
Not stuck, it came out very easy it looked new with no score marks at all, I than checked the spring length it was 71mm I think and it was supposed to be 72.5 so in the interim I put a washer under the spring and replaced it and ran the motor for a short time and rechecked the oil filter and now I have oil in the filter which was a great relief.
I have again checked the oil filter today and the filter is full of oil, the new pressure spring arrived and will now be changed along with fitting an oil pressure gauge just to be on the safe side.
Thanks for all the help.
Darryl.
Posted: Jan 29, 2015 09:23 AM
Gavin
20 posts
Joined: 16/09/2004 08:47:07
Location: Ashford United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Oil Pressure
I had the same problem with my 1293. Turned out to be a worn oil pump. Fitted a Turbo pump, and has run at about 50 PSI ever since (30 PSI after a good thrashing). I too had checked everything, changing pressure reilef valves, filters, oil, and ended up on the pump. Long winded, and really hacks you off, as you need to change the oil and filter yet again to do the pump! You can change an oil pump in three or four hours, if you have a good temperment, (little bit tight in the engine bay!). I managed to do it with the engine still in the car, although it was a squeeze. One other thought though. I HIGHLY recommend that you remove the pressure relief valve spring and cap and replace the cap with one of the ball bearings from a CV joint (fits perfect). This will prevent it from sticking period.
Posted: Dec 08, 2004 01:25 PM
ickle
16 posts
Joined: 27/03/2005 15:14:40
Location: Maidstone United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Yep, oil all over the place and the oil pump was primed beforehand so it isn't that.
The only place we can't see any trace of the stuff is in the pipe or block union for the oil pressure guage.
I'm suspecting a sticking plunger so have ordered a ball and spring for the relief valve - short of this I can't think of anything else.
Posted: Feb 20, 2008 12:25 PM
piccio
30 posts
Joined: 14/12/2004 22:04:39
Location: Olgiate Comasco (CO) Italy
strange noise????
Righ ive been chasing this one for a while..... i have a strange whirring noise cominbg from somwhere between the dizzy and the clutch cover. The angine has been recently rebuilt and i thought it might be the transfer gears (primary, idler) not refetted correctly. I have limite tools and not being able to remove the engine i could only check the primary gear which is fine! having said that i should mention that the noise starts at about 2000rpm , is proportional to engine speed but is slower (maybe half speed?) and goes up to about 2500-800rpm where it turns inot a somewhat less detectable whine. Although it may sound like transfer gears i am not convinced for thne following reasons. The nois is present in EVERY gear and clutch depressed, so am i not right in thinking that the transfer gears are not engaged when pressing the clutch? I thought it micht be the strater motor gear not returniong properly and fouling the flywheel but its not that, checked. My latest suspition is with the oil relief valve. I Noticed that after 30 min + runs, when the oil becomes warm the noise disappears , i also noticed that my oil pressure is always high : during throttle operation goes beyond 70 psi the limit of the pressure gauge and at idle i dont get less than 65 and that;s after a long run! By the way i have an innocenti 1300 export with the standard oil pressure gauge (small plastic transparent tube) might this have anything to do with it or have i completelly lost it??? Please Help!!!!
Posted: Jan 19, 2005 11:24 PM
engine oil light - on only at low revs
now I'd have that down as the warning signs of big ends shell bearings starting to fail or the oil pump is worn. yes - change the oil p/g and see if it is a faulty switch but those switches normally only light up when the o/p is down to around 10psi. by then the big end shells have taken an good hammering along with the camshaft bearings, rocker gear and gudgeon pins. Revving the nuts off an engine with an oil light showing is not the correct treatment unless you like engine swaps.
a warm engine in good condition at tickover will show arounf 20-25psi on a gauge. At 3500rpm it will show around 80psi depending if a pressure relief valve is fitted and what it is set to.
change the switch and if it doesn't go out then get it checked by a mechanic - it could make the difference between a rebuild or a replacement block and crank.
Posted: Feb 07, 2011 01:43 PM
BALDYMAG
77 posts
Joined: 24/10/2004 10:49:55
Location: Uckfield United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
NO OIL PRESSURE, ANY IDEAS KEITH CALVER ?
I HAVE A 1963 MINI FITTED WITH STANDARD MG METRO ENGINE , NEVER BEEN IN BITS. AFTER A 80MPH (4TH GEAR)RUN ON THE A27 IT DEVELOPED A RATTLE THAT SOUNDS LIKE ITS FROM THE CAMSHAFT AT THE No4 PISTON END OF THE BLOCK. THE OIL PRESSURES IS NOT READING ON THE GAUGE, WITH THE ADAPTOR IN THE BLOCK FOR THE OIL PRESSURE GAUGE PIPE REMOVED NO OIL COMES OUT WHEN THE ENGINE IS RUNNING. THE PRESSURE RELIEF VALVE IS OK ,NO OIL COMES OUT OF THERE EITHER. THERE IS NO RUMBLING FROM THE BOTTOM ENDS. EVEN WITH THE LACK OF OIL PRESSURE THE THING GOES LIKE A ROCKET. I AM NOT DRIVING IT NOW OBVIOUSLY. NO OIL IS GETTING TO THE ROCKER GEAR. IT IS FITTED WITH THE MINI OIL FILTER HOUSING NOT THE OIL COOLER MG METRO TYPE AND IT HAS THE CORRECT UNIPART OIL FILTER. THE OIL AND FILTER WERE CHANGED 300 MILES AGO. OBVIOUSLY THE RATTLE IS CAUSED BY OIL STARVASION BUT WHY.? SOMETHING FAILED WITH THE HIGHER RPM ? OIL PUMP?
Posted: Jan 22, 2005 08:57 PM